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Fact Sheet
The
Importance of Proper Diet for Comapnion Birds
Understanding
the Seed Junkie and his Diet
A “Seed Junkie” is a pet bird
that eats mainly seeds and nuts. These birds steadfastly refuse
nearly all other types of food offered. Obviously, a steady
diet of bird seed and nuts is not balanced or complete.
Strong dietary preferences
are very common among pet birds. Unfortunately, strong dietary
preferences for what is in essence junk food virtually guarantees:
(1) frequent illnesses, and (2) a greatly shortened life expectancy.
For example, consider the table below:
| Species |
Max Life Span |
Typical Life Span |
| Zebra Finch |
17 |
5 |
| Canary |
20 |
8 |
| Budgerigar |
18 |
6 |
| Cockatiel |
32 |
5 |
| Cockatoo |
40 |
15 |
| African Grey |
50 |
15 |
| Amazon Parrot |
80 |
15 |
| Macaw |
50 |
15 |
| Conure |
25 |
10 |
| Grey-cheeked Parakeet |
15 |
8 |
Why such a difference between
average life span and maximum life span? Well, the single
most important factor that prevents most pet birds from reaching
their full genetic potential in terms of life span is poor
diet (i.e. a seed based diet).
What’s so bad about seeds?
It is now well established that seeds - no matter how they
are colored, mixed, or pressed into shapes - are not a complete
and nourishing diet for pet birds.
Research has proven that seeds
are missing at least 21 different essential nutrients. They
are extremely high in fat (oils) and very low in calcium.
A bird on a seed diet is like a child on a strict potato chip
and soda diet. Neither is very healthy in the long run.
Don’t be fooled by “fortified”
seed mixes either. This “fortification” is often accomplished
by spraying a liquid vitamin/mineral supplement onto the seeds
and allowing it to dry. However, anyone who has watched birds
eat knows that this is a waste because the first thing a bird
does when it picks up a seed is to shell it and discard the
hull!
Adding a liquid vitamin/mineral
supplement to the drinking water is an improvement over raw
or fortified seeds, but even this is problematic. It has been
shown that adding a liquid vitamin and mineral supplement
to drinking water can increase the bacterial count in the
water by over 100 fold in less that 24 hours. Do we really
want our birds drinking that? I think not.
So, why do pet birds become
so easily “hooked“ on seeds? Two reasons: First, feeding seeds
is easy and convenient for us humans. Second, seeds are quite
tasty due to their relatively high fat and oil content, so
birds readily eat them. Research at the University of California
at Davis suggests that the relatively high fat (oil) content
of seeds produces and “energy rush” similar to the “sugar”
rush children experience when eating high sugar “junk foods”.
Parrots, like humans, will
preferentially eat high fat foods when given the opportunity.
In the case of pet birds, when these high fat foods are withdrawn,
the “addicted” birds will often go into a funk, displaying
a profound depression and craving for the seeds. This makes
the humans feel sorry for the birds so they give them more
seeds. This behavior undoubtedly contributes to the high prevalence
of “Seed Junkies”.
The Preferred Diet
for a Pet Bird
Birds tend to select their
foods according to habit, appearance, and social factors.
Social factors (peer pressure, jealousy, curiosity, etc) come
into play mainly in a flock setting. Social Factors have less
impact on the foods chosen by the typical pet bird. Consequently,
most solitary pet birds rely on habit and appearance to select
their foods. Unfamiliar or threatening food items are automatically
rejected, and favorite foods are consumed to the exclusion
of all other foods.
In the wild, the natural seasonal
changes in food availability forces birds to consume a varied
and balanced diet. In captivity, however, practicality limits
us to offering only a few, or at most a few dozen, different
food items. Seldom are these the sorts of foods that the bird
would find in it’s native habitat. The limited variety of
foods that can be offered to captive birds, plus their natural
tendency to eat only “favorite” foods means that it is very,
very unlikely that a captive pet bird will consume a balanced
diet on its own, even if one is offered. A diet based on formulated
bird pellets avoids this problem. With pellets, all the known
required nutrients are present in proper amounts and proper
proportions in a single food item. The bird can’t pick and
choose when it is fed pellets.
Therefore, at the present time,
the ideal diet for a pet bird is thought to consist of 80%
commercial formulated bird pellets, plus 20% fruits, vegetables,
and “people food”.
Commercial Bird Pellets
Below is a small sampling of
manufacturers that now offer one or more lines of quality
bird pellets. There are others, but this should give you a
start.
- Harrison’s Bird Diets (HBD)
- 7171 Mercy Road, Suite 135, Omaha, NE 68106.
- Mazuri Exotic Animal Feeds
- PMI Feeds, Inc.1401 S. Hanley Rd., St. Louis MO, 63144
- Pretty Bird - Pretty Bird
International, Inc. Zupreem - PO Box 2094, Mission KS 66202
- Lafeber Premium Daily Diets
- Lafeber Company - 24981 N. 1400 E. Rd., Cornell, 11 61319
- Roudybush Pellets - Roudybush,
Inc., 3550 Watt Ave., Suite 8, Sacramento, CA 95821
- Hagen - Rolf C. Hagen (USA),
Inc. Mansfield, MA 02048
Vegetables
When selecting fruits and vegetables
to offer birds, select those that are high in beta-carotene,
such as dark green or dark yellow vegetables or fruits. These
would include: sweet potato pumpkin parsley Brussels sprouts
winter squash escarole apricot mango broccoli spinach collard
greens endive romaine papaya
The amounts of the fruits and
vegetables fed must be carefully limited to 20% of the diet.
Use the following table as a guide:
Small - Medium birds . .
. . . 1 - 2 tsp per day
Medium - Large birds . . . . . 3 - 4 tsp per day
Bird Feeding Tips
Please keep the following points
when feeding pet birds:
- Grit is probably not necessary
when feeding a formulated pelleted diet.
- Seeds and nuts really have
no place in the aver-age pet bird’s diet, except for use
as a reward during training.
- Clean, fresh, uncontaminated
water should be available at all times.
- Food and water bowls should
be cleaned twice daily.
- Food and water containers
should be placed so that droppings do not easily fall into
them.
- Sipper tube water bottles
are preferred over water bowls (less contamination).
- Lories require a specialized
diet that includes soft gruels, nectars, and special powders.
Changing the Diet
Many birds develop poor eating
habits (seed dependency) during the time they are in a pet
shop before purchase. Habituation is a function of time and
familiarity. A bird may spend upwards of year in a pet shop
before purchase. Feeding a seed mix is easy and cheap for
the humans. So, seeds may be the pre-dominant food - or the
only food - available during they periods of time. Under such
circumstances, birds, like humans, can easily become habituated
in their feeding behaviors and dietary preferences. Birds
must gain a substantial familiarity with a given food item
before they will experiment with it or attempt to eat it.
Unfortunately, simply offering
a new food item along with a preferred or favorite food items
is rarely, if ever, sufficient to get a bird to eat a new
food item. Typically, they completely ignore - or throw out
-the new food, and continue to consume the favorite food items.
Before beginning a forced diet
change, it is advisable to have your bird examined and tested
by a veterinarian. Be aware that some veterinarians will not
see birds as patients. Furthermore, some of those who will
see birds actually have little or no experience with birds
as patients. When in doubt, ask.
For a number of reasons, we
recommend that bird owners purchase an inexpensive postal
type scale. We advise all bird owners to weigh their bird(s)
at the same time of day, every single day. The weight should
be recorded in a log and may be graphed if desired. Daily
weight checks are especially important during a forced food
conversion because some weight loss is normal, but too much
weight loss could be an early warning of a true medical problem.
As a general rule, birds in a home setting should not loose
more than about 10% or so of their original body weight during
a forced food conversion.
Specific Strategies
& Tips for Pellet Conversion
First, Change to Meal
Feeding. In the wild, most birds eat during 1-3 discreet
“feeding bursts”, each lasting about 20-30 minutes. A morning
meal and an evening meal is a common pattern. They spend the
rest of their day away from food sources, flying, preening,
playing or otherwise engaging in behaviors totally unrelated
to eating.
This is in contrast to the
typical pet bird who is on a Free Choice feeding program.
Such a bird typically has PLENTY of food available in its
cage, twenty-four hours a day, and is never more than a couple
of steps away from it. The relative inactivity of most caged
birds (compared to their wild cousins), combined with boredom,
and the constant opportunity to eat or overeat at any time
of the day or night, results in obesity in a large
number of pet birds.
Thus, a simple first step in
changing your birds diet is to return the bird to the natural
feeding pattern that it was designed for by evolution.
Instead of leaving food in
the cage 24 hours a day, offer food items for just 15-30 minutes,
two or three times a day (Young birds may require four meals
per day). At the end of the time period, any uneaten food
is removed form the bird’s enclosure. No more food is offered
until the next meal. Water, however, should be available at
all times.
In addition to being more natural,
meal feeding has the additional benefit of allowing the bird
to get hungry between meals. A hungry bird may be more willing
to experiment with or eat new foods!
Introducing Pellets
- Cold Turkey. Once a bird is on a meal feeding program,
it’s time to introduce the pellets. The Cold Turkey approach
involves removing the old seed-based diet at night and replacing
it with the new pelleted diet, which will then be the only
food available at dawn’s early light. This procedure is quite
simple and works well for some birds, under close supervision.
However, some birds may not recognize the new pellets as food.
These birds will whine and beg and may actually starve themselves
to death. Therefore, this method is recommended only for use
by experienced aviculturists or avian veterinarians.
Introducing Pellets
- Mixing. The Mixing approach to pellet conversion
was intended to help avoid the risks and perils of starvation.
This approach involves gradually replacing some of seeds with
pellets at meal time. Start by replacing a small amount of
the seeds with a some pellets. Over time, replace more and
more of the seeds with pellets. In time, each meal should
consist of 10% pellets, then 25%, then say 50% pellets, and
eventually 100% pellets. If the change is gradual enough,
over time (several days to several weeks) , a cooperative
bird will transition onto pellets without much trouble. Some
birds, however, are smart enough to realize what’s going on.
These birds will resist the pellets, whine and beg; doing
their best to make the humans feel guilty. It is at this point
that many people cave in. So the success rate for this method
is not as good as with other methods.
Introducing Pellets
- Constant Availability. This is the best method
for the average bird owner in a home setting. Once the bird
is comfortable with a meal feeding program, introduce the
pellets as follows. Start by having a bowl of the new food
(pellets) available in the cage at all times. Continue meal
feeding the seed based diet. When the bird gets hungry between
meals, it may discover that the pellets are not so bad after
all. Once the bird is willingly eating some of the pellets
between seed meals, gradually replace more and more of the
seeds in each meal with pellets. Eventually, it should be
possible to completely eliminate the seeds.
Change something else
besides the food. Some birds benefit from having
additional changes in their environment at the same time as
the diet change. In this way the new food itself may seem
less frightening. For example, remove all toys from the enclosure
so that the new food becomes the only distraction, or move
the entire enclosure to a new room, or temporarily house the
bird in an empty aquarium or bathtub with pellets sprinkled
on the bottom near a container of water. Heating the new food
up slightly, or moistening it with a little fruit juice may
also encourage a reluctant bird to give it a try.
Monkey See - Monkey
Do. Another bird that is already eating pellets can
be temporarily housed near the reluctant bird and used as
a model or trainer bird. In times passed, some aviculturists
and pet shops even had trainer birds available for rent! Owners
themselves can also act as models by pretending to eat some
of the pellets while the reluctant bird is watching. Taking
this another step, some experts suggest that bringing your
bird - and its bowl of pellets - to the dinner table may be
a rewarding ploy, Likewise, hand feeding the new food items
to the bird while you pretend to also eat some yourself may
help your bird to accept new and unfamiliar foods. Caution:
do not feed your bird from your mouth because the normal bacteria
in human mouths may be harmful to pet birds. A bird’s beak
can also do serious damage to a person’s lips!
Hospitalization May
Be Necessary. In certain cases (old birds, marginally
sick birds, budgies and cockatoos), or in cases where all
else has failed, hospitalization for feed conversion may achieve
the desired results. During this time, the bird is first allowed
to acclimate to its new environment. Then the hospital staff
gradually weans the bird off seeds and onto the proper diet.
The bird’s weight and its droppings are monitored daily and
special care can be given if needed. The key to success with
this technique is thought to be the temporary separation of
the highly bonded bird form its owner.
The Transformation
Process
Modifying your birds diet from
a seed based diet to a balanced pellet based diet will produce
some extraordinary results. As your bird adjusts to the new
healthy diet, you will see a definite improvement in its appearance
and perhaps even its behavior.
Many birds will experience
a major molt 1 - 2 months after conversion. This is because
their body finally has the nutrients it needs to make a proper
set of healthy feathers. Owners have remarked that their birds
look more brilliant, that they talk more, and are more playful
and better behaved since they started eating better.
Patience is Rewarded
All of the strategies mentioned
above should be considered in your effort to encourage your
pet bird to eat properly. It cannot be overemphasized that
you must be very persistent and patient with your bird in
this endeavor. Changing your birds diet will require a total
commitment on your part. It may take many months to achieve
the desired results, but the effort made and the frustration
endured will pay dividends in improved health and long life
for your companion.
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